At the end of my stay in Phuket (Muay Thai, Thailand) I felt completely depleted. After arriving in Indonesia I allowed myself a night and a day in an awesome and stunning hotel in Sanur, Bali. Also there I was not really happy and expected the worst for the coming planned adventure. While I was sitting in the hotel lobby, waiting to get picked up and be brought to the surf camp in Berawa, I thought: A weird man will come, with a broken car or maybe a moped. I was quite sure; very soon I am going to feel uncomfortable.
Suddenly a hotel boy came to tell me that my pick-up service had arrived. I walked down the incredibly long lobby, left the comfortable sofa, escaped from the moment and took a deep breath.
This is when my life became perfect.
The main guide from the Surf “WG” (Camp) picks me up. He is driving a big car and is wearing sunglasses with reflective glasses on his nose. Immediately he takes my bag and smiles friendly. A piece of his front tooth is missing.
Suddenly I sit next to him and ask myself, obviously too late, if I should have taken a seat in the back. Omar is smoking and eating Fisherman’s Friends. He tells me, he can’t really surf and he is only the driver from the Surf-Camp. We stop and buy some new Fisherman’s Friends.
Actually he does not talk much. To avoid silence I start telling him about me. I am sure he has no interest in my super interesting stories. But I was wrong. Weeks later he will mention details, I have told him on this ride.
Also days later I find out a lot more about Omar. I realise that he can surf by all means and that he is the one who can teach it best for me. Actually I am not talking about surfing itself. I mean the ability of handling the waves when you get pressed down again and again and the panic starts. He is so patient and understanding like no one has ever been before to me.
the daily surf routine can come
The Surf Camp advises total beginners to take part in a 3-day-course in a professional surf school. After spending my first night in a double-bed-room with a gecko I am prepared. The daily Surf practice can start! The beginner-course is completed; the Bali belly (terrible belly pain due to the change of the food) is endured. And now I am going to surf with the guides from the surf Camp. Between six and seven o´clock in the morning we leave for the ocean
In the late morning we return for breakfast and eat banana pancakes, Nasi Goreng (rice dish) or Mie Goreng (noodle dish). In the afternoon we go surfing again. I have never thought that a surfboard is able to cause so many bruises on one body. My knees, my thighs, my belly, practically my whole body is fully bruised. I swallow water, I am scared. But everything is worth the moment, when you are standing on a wave. Success makes you feel happy, the same is true for surfing a wave.
What are your favourite surfspots in Indonesia? Have you been to Java already? Which places can you recommend for surfing?
You can find more information about my wonderful accomodation here: https://www.surfwg.com/